Lawn Care in
Edmond, Oklahoma
Edmond splits cleanly into two lawn problems. Older neighborhoods south and west have a mature tree canopy that has slowly converted sunny bermuda lawns into struggling shade lawns. Newer builds north and east sit on ground that was scraped flat, compacted by equipment and then sodded, which looks great for one season and thins out in the second.
Edmond lawns have a pattern
These are the three things that come up on most Edmond properties we quote. Yours may be different, which is exactly why we look before we price.
Canopy shade is the number one complaint
Bermuda needs roughly six hours of direct sun to hold density. Under forty years of oak and elm growth it simply will not, no matter how much nitrogen goes down. The fix in established Edmond neighborhoods is usually a fescue conversion with fall aeration and overseeding, not more fertilizer.
New construction lawns run out of topsoil
On newer north Edmond builds the sod is often laid over compacted clay subsoil with two inches of screened dirt. Roots hit the pan and stop. Core aeration in the first two seasons does more for those lawns than anything else we can sell.
Bigger lots, real square footage
Larger Edmond lots mean the difference between a quoted price and an accurate one is significant. We measure treatable turf rather than pulling lot size off a map, which usually works in the homeowner's favor once beds, drives and the pool deck come out of the number.
What grows here that you did not plant
Edmond lawns bring us a lot of wild violet and ground ivy in the shaded areas, poa annua through the winter, and nutsedge wherever irrigation overlaps. Newer neighborhoods see aggressive crabgrass pressure along the hot edges of driveways and sidewalks.
A seven-round program timed to Oklahoma soil temperatures. Pre-emergent barriers stop weeds before they start, and season-appropriate feeding builds turf thick enough to crowd out the rest.
Lawn pest treatment for fleas, ticks and ant hills across the whole lawn, mosquito reduction around the house, and grub prevention before the damage shows. Exterior perimeter spray is available as an add-on.
Oklahoma clay compacts hard. Core aeration, fescue overseeding and Soil Conditioning open the ground back up so water, air and fertilizer actually reach the roots.
The seven-round year in Edmond
Same science everywhere, but the dates shift with soil temperature and we run Edmond as its own route so the timing holds.
Pre-emergent, round one
The round that decides your summer. A pre-emergent barrier across the whole lawn, with post-emergent in the same tank for anything already up. The blue tint is a marker dye so the technician can see every pass and miss nothing; it fades in a couple of weeks.
Pre-emergent, round two
A second application weeks later reinforces the barrier and carries crabgrass protection deep into summer, right when a single early application would be wearing off.
Fertilizer and weed control
Granular fertilizer across the whole lawn, every granule blown off the drive and walks, then weed control on whatever is up. If Soil Conditioning is on your program it goes in between. Same order every time, for a reason.
Fertilizer and weed control
Color and growth while the lawn is actively growing. Fescue lawns get their own mix from a separate tank, because Bermuda products damage fescue.
Fertilizer and weed control
The last feed of the growing season, with weed control keeping pressure down ahead of the fall pre-emergent.
Fall pre-emergent
Stops the winter weeds that germinate in cool weather, the ones that show up green in February when everything else is brown. Skip it and you spend March looking at henbit.
Winterizer
Built to push nutrients into the roots instead of the blade, so the lawn stores energy through winter and comes out of dormancy faster and greener.
Asked by Edmond homeowners
We also treat
Serving north Edmond, east Edmond, and the older neighborhoods near downtown Edmond and the rest of the Oklahoma City metro.
