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Program 01 · Core

Weed Control &
Fertilization

Seven visits a year, timed to soil temperature rather than a route calendar. Pre-emergent stops weeds before germination; balanced feeding builds turf dense enough to keep them out. Free resprays are part of the program from the first application on.

The schedule

All seven rounds

Round one is the one that matters most. Skip February and you spend the rest of the year treating crabgrass instead of preventing it.

1
Early spring

Pre-emergent, round one

The round that decides your summer. A pre-emergent barrier across the whole lawn, with post-emergent in the same tank for anything already up. The blue tint is a marker dye so the technician can see every pass and miss nothing; it fades in a couple of weeks.

2
Late spring

Pre-emergent, round two

A second application weeks later reinforces the barrier and carries crabgrass protection deep into summer, right when a single early application would be wearing off.

3
Early summer

Fertilizer and weed control

Granular fertilizer across the whole lawn, every granule blown off the drive and walks, then weed control on whatever is up. If Soil Conditioning is on your program it goes in between. Same order every time, for a reason.

4
Mid summer

Fertilizer and weed control

Color and growth while the lawn is actively growing. Fescue lawns get their own mix from a separate tank, because Bermuda products damage fescue.

5
Late summer

Fertilizer and weed control

The last feed of the growing season, with weed control keeping pressure down ahead of the fall pre-emergent.

6
Fall

Fall pre-emergent

Stops the winter weeds that germinate in cool weather, the ones that show up green in February when everything else is brown. Skip it and you spend March looking at henbit.

7
Late fall

Winterizer

Built to push nutrients into the roots instead of the blade, so the lawn stores energy through winter and comes out of dormancy faster and greener.

Inside a visit

Three things, in a fixed order

On a full round the technician does the same things in the same order on every lawn, because the order is what makes each one work.

1. Fertilizer

Granular, across the whole lawn, first. It goes down first so the granules get the longest possible exposure to moisture, because most lawns are not watered as much as they should be. Then every granule gets blown off the driveway and walks and back into the turf, where it was paid to go.

2. Soil Conditioning, if it is on your program

An add-on that rides on the same truck. A liquid that works on the soil, not the grass: it loosens heavy clay, carries iron for color, and the pass itself helps push the fertilizer down. The lawn is visibly wet behind the technician. It is supposed to be.

3. Weed control

Last, so it stays on the leaf, which is where it works. Spot sprayed when there are a few weeds, blanket when there are a lot, and never in wind: the label sets a limit and the label is the law. Nothing goes on after it. Give it 24 hours before mowing or watering.

Coverage

What the program controls

Grassy weeds

Crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, sandbur and nutsedge. Most of these are prevented rather than cured, which is why the spring pre-emergent timing is non-negotiable. No product kills every weed; ours kills what it is labeled for and suppresses the rest so it cannot spread or seed.

Broadleaf weeds

Dandelion, clover, spurge, henbit, chickweed, wild violet, ground ivy, thistle, plantain and bindweed. Fall applications work better than spring on the perennial ones.

Dallisgrass is different

A tough clumping perennial with a deep root system that does not respond to the products that handle everything else. It is its own four-treatment program, two in fall and two in spring, priced separately. If you have it, we will tell you.

Winter annuals

Poa annua and henbit are blocked with a fall pre-emergent, not treated in February. If your lawn goes purple every winter, you missed the November round the year before.

Grass types

Different grass, different plan

This is where most one-size programs go wrong. Feeding fescue on a bermuda schedule damages it.

GrassPeak feedingWhat we watch for
BermudaLate spring through summerFull sun requirement, thatch in older stands, dallisgrass creeping in
FescueFall, lightly in springSummer heat stress, brown patch, needs fall overseeding
ZoysiaLate spring through summerSlow recovery from damage, heavy thatch tendency
BuffaloLight, late springOver-fertilizing invites weeds; needs far less nitrogen
Included

What comes with every program

Free resprays

Weeds that push through after a treatment get resprayed at no charge, as long as you stay on the yearly program. Each round sets up the next, so skipping one costs more than the round.

Invoices that explain

Every invoice says what we did on that visit, why, and what to expect before the next one.

A call the day before

So you can unlock the gate and get the dog inside. You do not need to be home; the technician knocks, and if nobody answers the door hanger carries the details.

No contract

A yearly schedule, not an agreement. Stop with a phone call, no fee. The only thing that keeps you is whether the lawn looks better.

Next step

Get your lawn on the schedule

We measure your treatable turf area and send an exact price in writing, usually the same business day.